After the visit last year to Poland, it became apparent that the touring bug had bitten hard and it was decided to visit some new countries and tick off some more entries on the Country Checklist
Based on
the poor level of service experienced on the return journey from
the last trip, the decision was made to try another tour operator.
After consultation with the local independant travel agents, a
tour with Travelsphere
to the Baltic States was selected. As well as visiting the three
ex-Soviet states, the trip has the added benefit of the inclusion
of Finland in the itinery, making a total of four new countries to
be visited in a single trip.
It was obvious that a fair amount of coach travel would be required given the distances between the cities and the fact that the trip was only 10 days long. However, the inclusion of all evening meals in the price was welcomed as it would save having to find sustenance in a local restaurant at the end of a long day travelling.
Each of the three ex-Soviet capitals were found to be very good places to visit. The selected hotels were all fairly central, and being June the lighter evenings provided ample opportunity to wander out and explorer after dinner.
The evening stroll in Riga proved to be very rewarding when an unusual animal was spotted in the undergrowth of the city canal close to the National Opera. After several minutes of observation and discounting the possibility of it being a dog or cat based on what is what eating, the creature finally decided to move down to the water and swim away. At this point, its broad, flat tail was clearly seen identifying it as a wild beaver.
Other
highlights of the trip included visits to Druskininkai and the
display of Soviet sculptures in Grutas Park, the spectacular and
very popular Trakai Castle, Turaida Castle and Kadriorg Palace.
One of the more unusual sites visited was the Hill of Crosses in northern Lithuania. Here there are estimated to be over 400,000 crosses, giant crucifixes, carvings, statues, effigies and rosaries that have been brought here by Catholic pilgrims since the mid 1800s. From a distance it is not possible to see the full extent of the site, or begin to comprehend the vastness of its contents. However, from the path at the top of the hill it is possible to see the masses of religious articles that have been, and continue to be, brought here every year.
The final destination of Helsinki was reached after a two hour ferry crossing from Tallinn. Thankfully the good weather prevented any occurrence of sea-sickness in the group. Unlike the three Baltic states, Finland was never under Soviet occupation, but it does have a Russian hertiage. Strangely, it gave the appearance of being the least "western" of the cities we visited with its numerous rather plain and less colourful examples of architecture, though the proliferation of familiar brands of retail outlets gave it a homely feel.
Helsinki was also the location for the best lunch experienced on the trip. In a quiet side street off the Senate Square it is possible to find the Bryggeri Helsinki brewery and restaurant. The Pulled Pork Burger and recommended house beer, Midnight Sun Bavarian Wheat Ale, were chosen. The addition of a free salad bar and coffee after dinner came as a total surprise. Despite being told how expensive Finland can be, this lunch for two cost less than €40. A real bargain.




Looking
at the organised offerings from the various tour companies, it was
obvious that there were a number of different ways to see the
area. Rather than visit a number of locations for just a single
night, the choice was made to concentrate on a small number of
cities for a number of days. An appropriate tour by coach was
found with a company that had been used before. This would have
time available to see the capital as the flights arrived and
departed from Warsaw. Thankfully the majority of the other places
to see could easily be reached from the other two locations in
Krakov and Wroclaw.
The trip
also included visits to Auschwitz and Birkenau. As they are today,
it is hard to image the horror of these places when they were in
use, but it is still possible to feel a chill along the spine
walking through the gates and under the "Arbeit Macht Frei" sign.
Seeing the displays of belongings including suitcases, brushes and
shoes really begins to focus the mind and provide an idea of what
happened. Then it must be remembered that what is here is only
what was left when the camp was liberated. It is not possible to
imagine how many more items were collected and dispatched during
the time the camps were operating. Thoughts then turn to the
numbers of people who owned these items and their fate. On a sunny
September afternoon it is hard to come to terms with the scale of
what happened in these two places less that 80 years ago.
As
had been the case on the previous stay, a room upgrade was
selected that would include a private swimming pool facing onto
the large gardens that surround the complex. This pool was
certainly deep enough at 1.4m and just long enough to allow for a
few strokes of gentle breast stroke. However, unlike the previous
visit which had been in May, the October weather was not quite
sufficient to allow the pool to be used as much as was hoped. Even
so, the secluded patio area with two private sunbeds created a
sheltered sun trap that was enjoyable for most of the day. When
the sun got too strong it was a simple matter to sit on the edge
and dangle legs into the cool water for some relief from the heat.
The maid
service in the room was excellent. Due to the time of the return
flight, a late check-out was booked in advance to cover the time
until the journey to the airport. Surprisingly, on the last day
the room was made up with fresh towels and additional bottled
water during the morning even though it would only be occupied for
a few hours before needing to be serviced again. Also, the maids
showed off their exceptional towel folding skills during the
fortnight by creating various animals on the bed including a
rabbit, a swan, an elephant and a peacock. However, on one day
they created something extraordinary, a small man made of towels
and some of the clothing in the room. This was a first and proved
highly entertaining.
In order
to ensure everything would be just right the booking was made 18
months in advance. This time the trip would be from Budapest in
Hungary down the Danube as far as Bucharest in Romania, visiting
Croatia, Serbia and Romania along the way. As an extra, a three
night post-cruise extension, that involved a trip into
Transylvania, was added to the itinery. This would include a day
at Bran Castle, the home of the infamous vampire in Bram Stoker's
Dracula. Though not listed in the cruise itinery as essential
items, a couple of wooden stakes and cloves of garlic were
included in the baggage as a little extra 'travel insurance'.
After a couple of enjoyable days and nights in Budapest, the time
came to board our ship, the Viking Primadonna. This is unique
within the Viking fleet being the only catamaran-like vessel. The
stateroom came with a floor-to-ceiling window and small private
veranda that provided access to the open air while crusing. The
central atrium was also something unusual and provided a light
airy interior to the ship. Despite all these unique features, it
appears that the ship is in its last year of operation by Viking.
With so few cruises left in the season its probably understandable
why some of the fixtures and fittings in the common areas are
obviously in need of some TLC that won't be forthcoming.
For
the final few days, 32 of the original 146 passengers continued
their journey into the heart of Romania with a visit to Brasov and
Bran. It soon became obvious that this was vampire country. At
Peleș Castle the group stumbled upon a number of cars from the
The
quality of the room was reasonable for the price which included
breakfast and free internet. The only downside was the fact that
the en-suite bathroom was separated from the rest of the room by
an opaque glass wall which afforded little privacy! Another
strange feature was the base flying station positioned on the 37th
floor. This allowed those with the desire the chance to be secured
into a harness and "free fall" down the side of the building,
directly past one of the windows in the room! Hearing a loud
scream and seeing a shadow pass across the opposite wall brought
back memories of the famous "People Falling Out of High Buildings"
sketch from Monty Python's "And Now for Something Completely
Different". The final unusual feature was the old fashioned bus
parked outside the main bar that was used by those patrons wishing
to smoke.
The
first free day after the conference was spent walking to as many
of the typical tourist haunts as possible. This included the
Television Tower, the Neptune Fountain, St Nicholas Church,
Checkpoint Charlie, the Sony Center at Potsdamer Platz, the
Holocaust Memorial, the Soviet War Memorial in the Tiergarten, the
Reichstag, the Brandenburg Gate, Unter Den Linden, Berlin
Cathedral and along the banks of the River Spree.
After a
straightforward journey from Alexanderplatz on the U2 U-Bahn, the
following day was spent at the Berlin Zoological Garden and the
Aquarium. The zoo covers a large area and has many interesting
residents including lions, tigers, elephant, giraffe and a giant
panda. However, the main reason people visit is to see the world's
most famous polar bear,
The
final day was spent walking along various sections of the River
Spree, taking in sights such as the lock and Berlin Historic Port
Museum close to the Märkisches Ufer, as well as watching the
numerous city tour boats cruising back and forth. In an attempt to
find something typical of Berlin to bring home, a visit was paid
to the Ampelmann Shop close to Andy's Diner & Bar.
Following
another generous discount offer from
Travel
to Paris would be on the Eurostar service in a Leisure Select
carriage. This had been used on other holidays, but it would be
the first time that the journey started from
The only
other concern was the arrival in Paris. Unwittingly, this
coincided with the final day of the Tour de France which was due
to pass close to the location of the ship before finishing along
the Champs-Elysees. As it turned out, the transfer from the
station was uneventful, even if the traffic was a little more than
usual owing to some road closures, and it was not long before the
ship was seen. In fact, arrival was early enough to allow for a
quick crossing of the Pont de Grenelle to see the peloton pass
under the bridge as it headed into the centre of the city.
The
Rubicón Palace is a large complex with many different types of
accommodation. The Junior Suites were situated in various smaller
villas around the grounds. Each villa contained a couple of suites
along with about a dozen other types of room on two floors. The
suite itself comprised a bedroom, lounge, large bathroom, walk in
closet and terrace with sun-loungers, a table and chairs.
The hotel
had five pools, none of which ever seemed to be full, and an
abundance of sun-loungers. There was also plenty of additional
seating in the public areas and bars. The food was excellent, with
enough choices to ensure that the same meal didn't get eaten twice
in a fortnight. The downside of this was not being able to have a
second taste of the wonderful steak chosen on the very first
night.
As it
turned out, a few weeks before departure a letter arrived from
Kuoni stating that the booking at the Rendezvous had been
cancelled by the hotel as it was closed for substantial
renovation. Instead, an offer was made to transfer the booking to
the sister property,
One of
the many benefits of a stay at this resort is the inclusion of all
sporting activities. Having been looking for a relaxing fortnight,
the only ones taken up were the golfing lessons and the
snorkeling. Being able to swim only a few meters from the beach in
crystal clear water with exotic fish all around is exhilarating.
To then find what appeared to be a highly venomous stonefish
sitting on the bottom waiting for an unsuspecting foot got the
pulse racing a little faster. Sadly, subsequent research showed
that such fish aren't normally found in the Caribbean, but that
wasn't known at the time. Hopefully, at some future date a return
trip can be arranged where the full range of water sports can be
enjoyed.
The food at
the hotel is excellent. Most nights the menu in the Cariblue
Restaurant was perfect. However, making at least one reservation
for Tao is essential as not only is the food excellent but the
view of the moonlit beach, the gentle sound of the waves and the
size of the after dinner liquers make it a night to remember
forever.
In the
middle of 2008, when a letter arrived from Viking River Cruises
offering late availability on an eight day cruise along the Danube
at a 30% discount, there was no hesitation in booking. The cruise
started in Budapest and made its way west along the Danube
visiting the likes of Vienna, Melk, Linz and Passau before
reaching its final destination in Nuremberg.
Due
to the size of the discount received, it had been possible to
upgrade to a Cateogry B cabin. This was more like a normal hotel
room with proper beds, rather than a Pullman or sofa bed, and a
panoramic window. For obvious reasons. the only smaller part of
the cabin is the en-suite bathroom.
Despite it being late October, the weather was kind with no rain
and even some late autumn sunshine. Some mornings it was possible
to stand on the upper deck in the bright sunlight watching the
overnight frost melt off the railings. Each of the places visited
was interesting, but the highlight was the optional day spent in
Nuremberg visiting the sites often seen in old news reels showing
Nazi party rallies. Standing in front of the main podium at the
Zeppelinfeld and thinking about what happened because of what took
place their sends shivers up the spine.
Following a reasonably extensive search, the
As part
of the all inclusive package, guests are permitted to eat in any
of the restaurants on site apart from the restaurant in the Marina
Royal Palace. This is only open to guests in that hotel. After
experimenting with different restaurants during the first few
days, it became apparent that this was the worst of the
restaurants to use in the evening. Queues began forming at least
15 minutes before the doors opened. Some guests also made a habit
of staying at a table simply to continue drinking long after
finishing their meal. Given that there were not enough tables for
everyone to sit down at the same time, especially when the terrace
was closed due to poor weather, it was often the case that groups
of people were seen wandering round with plates of food trying to
find somewhere to sit. Aware of this fact, full use was made of
the other restaurants on site which were often less than half
full. The only disadvantage of these was the fact that drinks were
self-service. Given that the waitresses in the Marina Royal Palace
restaurant were often far too busy re-laying tables to serve
drinks, this proved to be no bad thing.
During the
first visit twelve months previously, the chance was taken to
experience a couple of the local excursions. The best of these was
the jeep safari, conducted in what should be considered vintage,
ex-Russian army vehicles. The day long event travelled around a
fairly extensive portion of the local area visiting charcoal
producing forests, villages being decimated due to the exodus of
young people and private estates once used as royal hunting
lodges. An excellent meal in a local winery was also included.